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MERCADO GASTRONOMICO
Sérgio Augusto Carvalho
Para os tradicionalistas, como eu, as invenções tecnológicas e culinárias na Cozinha nem sempre são bem-vindas.
Não por resistência à modernização da atividade e, sim, pelo seu aspecto modernoso. Mais ou menos como se alguém construísse nos dias de hoje uma casa em estilo colonial e trocasse a arquitetura própria da época (desenho e materiais) pelo uso de produtos modernos e genéricos. E dissesse, no fim, que é uma “casa colonial”. Não é.
Na Culinária, não pode existir “Tradicional à Minha Moda”. Isto é: Bisteca Fiorentina à Moda do Chef; Frango ao Molho Pardo Japonês; Baião de Dois com Porcini, Tiramissu com Fubá…
Com os equipamentos de cozinha a realidade é semelhante. Menos agressiva, mas parecida.
A criação industrial veio para ajudar na produção dos alimentos, tanto no dia a dia doméstico quanto na atividade comercial. Pequenos instrumentos, aparelhos sofisticados e acessórios complicados estão aí para facilitar a vida dos cozinheiros.
O Forno Combinado, por exemplo, surgiu há cerca de 30 e foi um assombro para os grandes Chefs. Como aquele trombolho podia facilitar tanto a produção de assados? E o cozimento por indução? A fritura sem óleo?
Para consumo doméstico, a grande invenção em uso generalizado nas cozinhas do mundo é o Air Fryer. Pra quem tem preguiça de cozinhar ou aversão às frituras na frigideira, esse aparelho caiu como mosca-no-mel!
Se você pensa que essa invenção do americano Chad S. Erickson é sucesso só no Brasil, saiba que o (aparelho) Air Fryer caiu no gosto de meio-mundo, até mesmo nas comunidades onde a Culinária é uma arte irretocável, como França e Itália. A Holanda reivindica para um engenheiro de Amsterdam, Fred Van der Weji, a autoria do invento.
Entre as propriedades cativantes do Air Fryer está o seu lado saudável. As frituras condenadas pela unanimidade de nutricionistas, e quase toda a classe médica, não tem vez com este aparelho. É a realização de um sonho para a Geração Saúde, que nunca podia imaginar comer uma pratada de Batata, frita sem óleo.
Uma relação inicial de iguarias preparadas numa Air Fryer inclui:
Frango Assado
Rosbife
Bisteca
Souflée
Costelinha “frita”
Ovo Cozido
Nuggets
Tomates Gratinados
Pães
Torta Salgada ou Doce.
A tecnologia usada nesta fritadeira do Século XXI é simples: um ventilador faz circular o calor gerado por resistência elétrica com tal velocidade que cozinha e torna o alimento crocante e seco. A temperatura atinge 200 graus e oferece regulagens para todos os tipos de ingredientes.
Já existem dezenas de Livros com receitas especiais para você preparar o almoço e o jantar familiar sem se preocupar com a qualidade do alimento. Quanto ao paladar, cada um na sua! O que será melhor: fritar um Torresmo na Banha ou no Air Fryer? Se você fizer esta experiência, certamente vai se surpreender. Se for muito exigente vai dar bomba no aparelho, mas, convenhamos, a diferença do sabor não chega a assustar.
Ainda não sei se há restaurantes aderindo ao novo processo. Creio que não, pois suas características domésticas não favorecem a produção (fluxo) quase industrial dos pratos relacionados no Cardápio. Uma boa razão para aparecer uma indústria ambiciosa e fabricar uma Air Fryer enorme, com fizeram com o Forno Combinado. E até mesmo acrescentar inovações na invenção de Chad Erickson (ou do Fred Weji), patente adquirida pela Phillips.
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